How We Photograph & Authenticate Every Bottle
Buying a bottle that was filled forty years ago is not the same as buying one filled last month. The liquid inside does not change in glass, but everything around it does — the fill level drops, corks dry, labels fade, capsules loosen. Two bottles of the same 1983 bourbon can be in very different condition, and no stock photograph will ever tell you which one you are getting.
That is why we photograph our vintage and rare bottles individually, and why we describe condition plainly rather than flatteringly. This page explains exactly what we do before a bottle is listed, what we disclose, and what happens if something arrives wrong.
The bottle in the photograph is the bottle you receive
Vintage and rare bottles are one-of-one. When we list one, we photograph that specific bottle — not a manufacturer's press image, not a previous example of the same release. What you see is the fill level, the label wear, the capsule and the closure as they actually are on the bottle that will be packed and shipped to you.
We work with local photographers to shoot our bottles properly, because on a four-figure bottle the photograph is the product description.
Current-production bottles that we hold in quantity — a case of the same release, all identical and unopened — may use a single representative image. Anything vintage, allocated or single-barrel is shot individually.
What we check before a bottle is listed
Every vintage bottle is inspected before it goes on the site. We are looking at six things:
- Fill level. Whiskey does not evaporate in a sealed bottle, but forty years past an imperfect seal will cost volume. We note where the fill sits relative to the shoulder and neck.
- Tax strip. A red or green strip over the closure means the bottle was filled before 1985, when the United States discontinued them. Whether it is intact, torn or missing is both a dating clue and a condition marker.
- Glass code. The numbers moulded into the base of the bottle usually encode the year the glass was made, which is within a year or two of the fill date. This is how a bottle with no date on the label gets dated.
- Seal, capsule and closure. We look for evidence that a bottle has been opened and resealed — a lifted capsule, a disturbed cork, adhesive residue. This is the single most important check against refilled counterfeits.
- Label condition. Fading, water staining, tears, and whether front, back and neck labels are all present.
- Original packaging. Whether the box, bag, certificate, stopper or presentation case is present, because on many bottles these carry a real share of the value.
What we disclose
If a bottle has a low fill, a torn label, a missing box or a replacement stopper, we say so in the listing and you can see it in the photographs. We would rather lose a sale than have a bottle arrive as a surprise.
Where a label states a distillery — Stitzel-Weller, National Distillers, Old Fashioned Copper — we repeat exactly what the label says and nothing more. We do not assert distillate origin that a bottle does not itself claim, and we would be sceptical of any seller who does.
What is normal on an old bottle, and what is not
This is the part buyers new to vintage whiskey most often get wrong, so it is worth being direct about it.
Normal, and not a defect
- Ullage. The gap between the liquid and the closure. All old bottles have some. It is the expected result of decades of storage and it is not damage.
- Slight seepage around the cork or seal. Corks dry and shrink. A little weeping at the neck is characteristic of old bottles, not a fault.
- Label wear, fading and staining. Paper is forty years old. It looks forty years old.
- Fill variation between bottles. Two bottles of the same release will rarely sit at the same level.
Not normal, and worth raising with us
- Substantial leakage in transit — we treat two ounces (roughly 60 ml) or more as the threshold for review.
- Breakage or damage sustained in shipping.
- A bottle that does not match its listing photographs or description.
If something is wrong
Contact us within 7 days of delivery at Contact@takeyourpickliquors.com or +1 (202) 505-3885.
Because these are collectible items rather than commodity stock, every request is reviewed individually. To do that properly we will ask for photographs of the front of the bottle, the back of the bottle, close-ups of the seal and closure, and the outer packaging and shipping materials including any damage. Please keep the box until the matter is settled.
For current-production bottles that arrive damaged, we will replace the bottle where a replacement exists, or refund it. In most cases the original bottle needs to come back to us first. Shipping charges are not refunded.
Opened or consumed bottles cannot be returned, and normal vintage characteristics — ullage, minor seepage, label wear — are not grounds for return. Our full terms are in our returns and refund policy.
How we source
Our barrel picks are selected by the owner, who also partners with local bourbon groups on barrel selections. We work directly with distilleries on exclusive releases, and long-standing relationships with retailers across the DC area let us source bottles from markets most buyers cannot reach.
Our staff go through an extensive training programs so they know the products we sell and how to pack them properly. Every order requires an adult signature (21+) on delivery. Full details are on our shipping and delivery page.
Common questions
More on ordering, shipping and delivery is in our FAQ.
Are the photographs the actual bottle I will receive?
For vintage, rare and single-barrel bottles, yes — each is photographed individually before listing. Current-production bottles held in quantity may share a representative image.
Is a low fill level normal on a vintage bottle?
Yes. Some loss over decades is expected and is not considered a defect. We show the fill level in the photographs so you can judge it before buying.
What is ullage?
The empty space between the liquid and the closure. In vintage whiskey it is the normal result of slow evaporation past an imperfect seal over many years.
How do you date a bottle with no year on the label?
Primarily the glass code moulded into the base, which usually encodes the year the glass was made. Tax strips (discontinued in 1985), label wording, distillery names and addresses, proof statements and closure style all narrow the range further.
How do you know a bottle is genuine?
The most common form of counterfeit is a refilled genuine bottle, so the closure is where we concentrate: capsule integrity, cork condition, tax strip, and any sign the bottle has been opened and resealed. We then check that the label, glass and fill are all consistent with the claimed era.
Do you pack vintage bottles differently?
Yes. Older bottles have older closures and thinner glass, and they are packed accordingly. High-value bottles receive additional protection to ensure safety in transit.
Can I ask questions before buying?
Please do. Call +1 (202) 505-3885, Monday to Friday, 10am–4pm EST, or use the enquiry form on any product page. Asking for more photographs or condition detail before committing to a four-figure bottle is a completely normal request and we are happy to take the time.